It should be very quick and easy to remove in case of an emergency. I really love how the plexiglass storm windows turned out. They look like they came that way. I will may get plexiglass for a few more windows next year. Look at the difference it makes! I made clear vinyl covers adhered with Velcro for the screen parts of the windows I covered with plexiglass so I could remove the covers and open the windows to let in fresh air on nice days.
I actually decided to go ahead and use the one above since it was going to be mostly obscured by plants anyway. Then I made new ones, too. Then I cut a piece of vinyl a little bigger than the space I needed to cover and stuck it carefully to the Velcro, stretched as taut as possible to avoid creases along the Velcro.
For this smaller window, I decided to cut the vinyl big enough to cover the entire frame, because on my windows where only the inner frame is covered the outer frame still gets pretty cold.
Please leave a comment if you have any questions! And if you would like to see the rest of the things we do to prepare our camper for winter, you can read about it in this blog post.
If you live in an extremely cold climate, in addition to insulating your windows from the inside, you could also cover them with plastic from the outside.
Most RV owners who do this cover their windows on the outside with clear vinyl, plastic, or plexiglass taped on with foil HVAC tape , which can be used at any temperature and comes off cleanly when removed. Bubble wrap could also work as long as there were no perforations to allow moisture and air to enter.
Here are my conclusions:. One RV owner suggested using magnetic strips instead of Velcro to create a better seal; if anybody tries that, let me know how it goes. Click here to read about the other ways we prepare our RV for winter! If you have a condensation problem, absolutely! Hello what if are not using the trailer in the winter should you do this method.. Thank you. Hi, I believe this person basically plagiarized your article.
I was reading his thinking it sounded awfully familiar then realized he basically copied everything from you verbatim…. Hi, does the plexiglass work as well in the summer to help keep it cool? The best way to keep an RV cool in summer is to reduce the effects of the sunlight beating down on it as much as possible, which can be done in various ways which I discuss in my article about how to keep an RV cool in summer.
My problem is not just cold but also heat from the entire slide out. I need a solution to this. There must be some air space and that makes it such a big project. Also the window problem. What about solar screen on the window screens. Clean it up, new spacer and sealant. Oh, and it's not a trivial job. Takes time and patience. I know, I've done more than a handful on 2 motorhomes. Double pane, or thermopane glass HAS to be sealed at the factory. You cannot do this in the field.
There is a Vacuum between the panes. Heat cannot travel through a vacuum, that is how a thermos bottle works. The vacuum between the inner and outer bottle keeps your coffee hot. Some also use an inert gas like Argon for the same effect. If you do a field repair on these they will not work as well and they will fog up again. Originally Posted by johnbell Sorry folks. No vacuum, and no inert gas in RV windows, just pain 'ol air. Repairing them yourself isn't terribly hard, IF you are patient and handy.
Tedious, yes, nerve wracking, yes, but not hard. I can't tell what kind of windows you have, so I'll give you the general rundown. I've done a dozen myself, with ordinary tools. The only "special" tool I suggest is an applicator guide block. Mark each pane, inside and out. Figure you WILL forget where each pane came from. Then you remove the glass from the frame. On sliders, the frame is joined at a seam with screws, a plate and some sealer.
Remove the screws and plate, then spread the frame enough so the windows glass comes free. Your type may come apart differently. If there's something glued to the glass like a handle or hinge, this will be the most difficult part. The handles I've encountered are attached with a thin foam double sided tape.
Some may be glued with sealer. I made a cutting tool out of a hacksaw blade grinding the teeth off and making a hooked knife at the tip. Using a solvent that won't attack the glass - I used Seafoam - simple soap and water or Windex may work too. Occasionally rock the metal to see if it's coming loose. If it feels like it's starting to come loose, you can apply heat from a heat gun or hair drier to the metal. You may try a small plastic wedge but beware, while tempered glass is very strong, it's edge impacts that will shatter it.
If it's not coming loose, go back to cutting and rocking. This is true of any glass, but tempered glass is "soft" and will scratch if cut or scraped dry. Why not use a utility knife? Because the knife handle is too thick and will force the tip of the blade at an angle into the glass. Cubed glass.
The hack saw blade is flexible and thin. You can wrap it with tape where you grip it, or use gloves. Once the metal is removed, set the glass on a soft but firm surface, a towel covered work bench or old table is good. It's time to separate the panes. Spray the edge and start slicing through the sealer. Slice along the inner edge of the glass. There's a spacer, probably aluminum between the panes and you want to slice through the sealer to free one pane leaving the spacer on the second.
Keep the blade straight and don't twist or pry on the glass. Don't worry how deep each cut is, just keep working your way through. Don't stab yourself with the blade. Once you separated the first pane, do the same with the second, this time to remove the spacer. You'll be left with sealer still sticking to the glass. Grab a single edge razor blade. Use your finger or thumbnail to feel the edge of the razor blade to determine which side has a burr.
Your nail will catch on it. The burr goes UP - the non burr side against the glass. Keep the glass wet. You shouldn't have to press hard. Scrape with the razor at a low angle with respect to the glass.
If you put the razor down for any reason, do the nail check to be sure you start again, burr up. Now that you have the sealer removed, time to clean the glass. I suggest having your assembly station ready and new spacer and sealer ready, but not opened.
The thing to remember is, any film, dirt, dust or fuzz left on the inner surfaces will be sealed in, ready to taunt you every time the sun shines through. How much you can tolerate is up to you. I did real good until the very last pane. The nest sunny day after my repair I noticed a nice 2" long cat hair right in the center of the window. I was lucky. By banging on the glass with the heel of my hand I worked the hair to the bottom where it remains to this day.
It's be there long after my cat is dead and buried. I wash the glass using either window cleaner or dish soap, and rinse it with a hose. When clean the water will bead up and roll of the surface.
Use the sun or bright light to check the surface, change the angle of the reflection as you look at the glass. If it looks clean, you can use some low pressure, compressed air to blow the remaining drops off the edge of the glass. Early on I used diluted glass cleaner, and lots of paper towels, finishing off with a lint free microfiber cloth to remove lint. Then I realized a method I used to clean telescope mirrors would work better, and that's the wash method outlined above.
No towels, no lint, no touch dry. Look Ma, no spots! The worst that will happen is you'll have to wash it again. No big deal. If you need to set the glass down to wash it make sure it's on a towel. Ok, now that you have clean panes, I usually set them up on edge on a towel so dust doesn't settle on the clean surface.
The only drawback to a too large of a set-back is you'll see some of the spacer when the window is re-installed. I peel back the protective film on the one side as far as you think needs to be, lightly apply the first inch of the spacer and pull it out most of the length of the side, keeping it off the glass until you think you have it straight, then LIGHTLY lay it down.
If you don't get it straight, you can lift it in a quick motion, pull straight again, and lay it down. If a consumer purchases a new RV that has these windows, they do add significantly to the cost of the unit. However, on a used RV, they make no difference in price. Since these types of windows make travel more comfortable, easy, and secure why not buy a unit that uses them. Weigh the pros and cons of RV Thermal Windows and decide for yourself.
The cost of a repair or a replacement depends greatly on who does the work and the condition of the glass. Some of the worst shops charge the most! The lower amount is reasonable; the higher one is highway robbery. This is why you should always do your homework to find a shop that will do the job correctly and at a fair price. Answer: Not sure what you're asking here, but it appears that when your dual pane windows failed, they were improperly replaced with windows that did not have the gas put in between the pains, which is why they failed again.
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